Monday, March 7, 2016

MARKING PERIOD 3 UNIT TEST VOCAB

UNIT TEST (20% OF MP3 GRADE)
B DAY: WEDNESDAY 4/6
G DAY: THURSDAY 4/7

WASHINGTONVILLE HIGH SCHOOL
CLAY
UNIT 3: VOCABULARY

Coil-Building (also known as coil construction or coil method): Coils are long, snake-like ropes of clay that are used in making pottery. The coil method of making pottery involves building the walls of a pot with a series of coils into the required shape. Once the desired height has been reached the surface can either remain coil-textured or they can be smoothed. Much pottery in primitive cultures was made this way, and remains one of the principle hand-building technique potters use.

Pottery Wheel: The potter’s wheel has been in use for over 4,000 years. It originated in Mesopotamia. The centrifugal force of ancient and modern wheels allowed potters to make or “throw” symmetrical and balanced pots, vessels, bowls, and other containers. The first pottery wheels were made of wood or stone and were powered by hand, kicking, or pushing with a stick.

Throwing: Process of spinning a ball of clay on a pottery wheel to create an open form or vessel.

Centering clay: Centering involves pushing/squeezing the spinning ball of clay until it rises (called coning up) and then pushing the clay back down. This process is repeated until the clay is spinning without a wobble. The clay must be centered or you won’t be able to throw a symmetrical pot. When centering, the pottery wheel is typically spinning at a high speed.

Opening: Opening results in the clay mass becoming a “donut” so that later the walls can be thinned and made taller. Thumbs or fingers are used to make an opening in the center and then the opening is widened. This must be done a medium speed on the pottery wheel.

Lifting the Wall: Lifting and stretching the wall of the pot to thin it (evenly) and give the pot its height. This is done at a slower speed then centering and opening.

Compressing the Rim: Using your finger or a small sponge to compress the rim of your pot to ensure the rim does not become too thin. You compress the rim before you collar in after each lift.

Collaring: This process of using both hands to squeeze the top part of your pot to bring it in a small amount helps to balance out the centrifugal force, which forces the clay outward. If a pot becomes too wide at the top it can cause the pot to collapse. You collar in after you compress the rim each time you lift the wall.

Undercut: Using a wooden knife to create an angle edge around the base of your pot after you are done lifting your walls. This helps remove excess clay and makes it easier to cut your pot off your bat with a cutting string or wire. 

Trimming or Turning a Foot Ring: Trimming or turning a pot on the wheel means to take your leather hard pot, turn it upside-down and trim off excess clay from the bottom and/or to carve an even foot ring around the base.

Foot Ring: A foot ring is a neat ring, trimmed into or added onto the bottom of a clay pot. The foot ring helps to remove excess clay at the base of a wheel thrown pot. Foot rings are typically not glazed and allow the pot to be glaze fired without sticking to the kiln shelf.

Pulling a Handle: Process by which you use your hand and gravity to pull a sausage of clay into a handle for a clay vessel. 

Bisqued Clay/Bisqueware: Clay that has been fired in the kiln.

Glaze: Glaze is a thin coating of glass painted onto the surface of bisqued clay, which fuses to the clay surface during the firing process. This coating may provide:
a.      Decorative Effects- To add color, design and texture to the surface of your bisqued clay.
b.     Functional Qualities- Glaze will seal the porous surface of your bisque clay create a more hygienic surface to eat and or drink out of.

Opaque Glaze: Opaque glaze will fire solid. You cannot see through opaque glazes so they should not be painted over areas in which you have delicately carved details or text. You can however use opaque glazes for staining.

Translucent Glaze: Translucent glaze you can see through. Translucent glazes are perfect for painting over delicately carved or stamped details or text.

Shiny Finish: Glazes that have a shiny finish will look glossy.

Matte Finish: Glazes that have a matte finish will not be shiny and will have a dry, flat appearance.


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